![]() Why is that? After dusting off my high school chemistry I see that Carb Cleaners have more ingredients including a number of chemicals and compounds that have multiple carbon, hydrogen and oxygen groups, double bonds and rings.Īcetone, Xylene, Toulene Propane, Butanone, Ethyl Benzene, 2- Butoxyethanol. With the cold weather and starting I have heard people use Carburetor cleaners instead of diethyl ether based starter fluids. I mainly use my 58 Cub for plowing, though I would like to eventually restore it. Jump the battery-get 14+ volts, and it would fire right up.I am up in the North East, a couple nights ago it was -9 and the weather is forecast for about the same with snow. If that battery dropped below 11.5 volts, this truck would flat not start at all-but it would crank what seemed like all day long. This dropped my ignition voltage down to 9 volts or less, and I never did get around Had an old Dodge pickup that I ditched the computer controls and went to a stand alone ignition system While the engine is running-your wiring is okay-and the solenoid may be the culprit. Just thought of something-if you get that 7-9 volts on the "I" post of the solenoid (just because the car starts does NOT mean the solenoid is working correctly. If a broken wire-all you need to do is add a wire from the "I" on the starter solenoid to the coil "+" and that should give you 12 volts while cranking.Īlso need to check the starter solenoid-that "I" post needs to have 12 volts while cranking the engine-if it does not-the solenoid needs to be replaced. If you only get between 7-9 volts while cranking-you have a broken wire between the starter solenoid and the coil. Should have 11.5 or more volts while cranking-12 volts would be great, so your battery needs to be up to par. Have someone crank the engine over while you are checking voltage at the coil + wire-in park or neutral-brake set You really want that 12 volt shot of power getting to the coil on startup-if not, the car can be hard to start-or impossible. Perhaps you are not getting a full 12 volts to the coil when you are cranking the engine. (but yes-it is a bit temperamental when flame hits it). ![]() ![]() One of the reasons it will start on ether is because that stuff acts more like a very volatile diesel fuel-tends to light up under pressure as opposed to a spark. Here's a thought-might be a bit off the wall but easy enough to check if you have a meter. Should start and run at fairly fast idle, at least in these summer months. Then put a half-teaspoon of gasoline in each side, and immediately crank it. Let me suggest an experiment that might be a helpful diagnostic: next time, do not touch the gas pedal at all, but at the carb open the throttle just enough to get it to rest on the first step of the fast idle cam. There is no vacuum pull-off, so it'll run at fast idle and very rich until the electric heater opens the choke plate. I dunno how Edelbrock thought that electric choke was supposed to work. When you say 'it won't start' do you mean that it never fires at all? Nothing? When it finally starts, does your motor run and idle well? Why I wanted to hear you say you checked the squirt first thing, before doing any cranking. So, if there is no fuel in the carb then pumping the gas or not still results in no squirt until you've cranked it long enough to fill the bowl. No problem at all if I start it every couple days. I wrote 'normally' because if I let it sit for a week I find that all the gas in the carb has evaporated. Luckily, my car normally starts easily with no choke at all so I'm just guessing about your problem. I don't know what 'choke set to specs' means, either, and I have an Edelbrock 1406 with electric choke.
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